Our final vacation dinner - tomorrow night we have to cook for ourselves!
The last super:
Thursday, December 13, 2018
Fort Lauderdale
So we are now in our 9th temporary residence since November 26th (if you count one Airbnb and the 45 person cruise ship), the Holiday Inn Express close to the airport. It still amazes me that you can wake up near the Southern Hemisphere and end up in Miami in time for dinner.
Our final vacation dinner - tomorrow night we have to cook for ourselves!
The last super:
Our final vacation dinner - tomorrow night we have to cook for ourselves!
The last super:
45,000 Feet on the Way to Miami
Up at 5:30 am, taxi to airport, 1 hour flight to Bogata, Columbia, and now the last leg to Miami.
Wednesday, December 12, 2018
Final Day in Quito
Anne visited an art museum (which was once the home of the artist) this morning which was one her trip highlights (I was too tired to join her). We saw a print of this artist in our Airbnb in Lima. See - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oswaldo_Guayasam%C3%ADn
Several photos to follow. We met up later in the day in “Colonial Quito”, also known as the old town.
More details to follow.
We had an excellent dinner at Casa Gangotena which is in a pristine and elegant space in a 5 star hotel by the same name. Regrettably a few food pix follow also. Here are Anne’s pix.
Several photos to follow. We met up later in the day in “Colonial Quito”, also known as the old town.
More details to follow.
We had an excellent dinner at Casa Gangotena which is in a pristine and elegant space in a 5 star hotel by the same name. Regrettably a few food pix follow also. Here are Anne’s pix.
Tuesday, December 11, 2018
More Quito
We got off to a slow start this morning and did not make it to the start of the sky tram until 11 am. This is one of the world's highest aerial lifts, that takes passengers on a 2.5km ride (10 minutes) up the flanks of Volcán Pichincha to the top of Cruz Loma at 15,000 feet. Alas it rained a bit and our equatorial sun went into hiding, so the views were great but not over the top.
We could not call Uber front the base of the sky tram ride, so had to take the waiting taxi. The driver did not understand where we wanted to go, so we had him take us back to our hotel, figuring we could walk from there. Bad idea. Not only was the walk to the Contemporary Art Museum arduous (I have found that the altitude makes it difficult for me to walk long distances), but there was no art in this museum - turns out the lovely building has been taken over by the school of architecture.
So we went by taxi to Plaza Foch, named after a famous general, because we had been advised that it was an interesting place to visit. Alas, it rained a bit and the average age of those hanging out in the bars and coffee shops was 25, so we had a drink, walked back to the hotel, watched CNN on BBC (the only channel in English), ordered room service pizza, and stayed in.
Some views of Quito:
We could not call Uber front the base of the sky tram ride, so had to take the waiting taxi. The driver did not understand where we wanted to go, so we had him take us back to our hotel, figuring we could walk from there. Bad idea. Not only was the walk to the Contemporary Art Museum arduous (I have found that the altitude makes it difficult for me to walk long distances), but there was no art in this museum - turns out the lovely building has been taken over by the school of architecture.
So we went by taxi to Plaza Foch, named after a famous general, because we had been advised that it was an interesting place to visit. Alas, it rained a bit and the average age of those hanging out in the bars and coffee shops was 25, so we had a drink, walked back to the hotel, watched CNN on BBC (the only channel in English), ordered room service pizza, and stayed in.
Some views of Quito:
Fellow Travelers
When I first encountered Robert and Annie Cohen on the Lindblad cruise ship, their French accents and jump-to-the-head-of-the-line manners stood out among the other 43 Caucasian Americans. I saw them from time to time on the trip, but had no occasion to chat with them. I was surprised to see them come along on the sea kayaking trip - they did not look like the type to enjoy such - but they were very adept and clearly had a good time.
The next time I interacted with them was at the airport in the Galapagos, when they were the first to learn that Lindblad had screwed up our flights. We shared a frantic couple of hours dealing with the crisis along with a third couple who were supposed to fly to Quito (though not as part of the Lindblad organized “Quito Extension”). During the next 12 hours, we were together waiting, flying, and motoring to our hotel together and found them to be easy to get along with.
So, the next day (Monday), Anne and I spent the whole day with them on our organized tours and meals. We had lunch and diner together as well as spending hours together in the van. Naturally over this time we learned a lot about them and their lives - and thus this extended narrative!
Robert and Annie own an apartment in New York (where they spend half the year), an apartment in Paris (Annie was born in Paris), and a country home in the Adirondacks in New York. They have two adult children and four grand children, and travel a lot. Robert attended a top level college for the French elite in Paris based on his test scores and has a PHD in international finance. He was CEO of a major French bank for many years and is now the CEO of a South Korean bank. They are wealthy. And they are interesting as individuals and as a married couple who have successfully raised two children (they met when she was 19 and he was 20). He also turned 70 recently.
I felt as if we connected on a personal level, just as people. Though on a material level we are not equals (by what measure I can only imagine), there are many touch points in the arc of our lives, so perhaps we will stay in touch and share stories again - this time in Manhattan!
The next time I interacted with them was at the airport in the Galapagos, when they were the first to learn that Lindblad had screwed up our flights. We shared a frantic couple of hours dealing with the crisis along with a third couple who were supposed to fly to Quito (though not as part of the Lindblad organized “Quito Extension”). During the next 12 hours, we were together waiting, flying, and motoring to our hotel together and found them to be easy to get along with.
So, the next day (Monday), Anne and I spent the whole day with them on our organized tours and meals. We had lunch and diner together as well as spending hours together in the van. Naturally over this time we learned a lot about them and their lives - and thus this extended narrative!
Robert and Annie own an apartment in New York (where they spend half the year), an apartment in Paris (Annie was born in Paris), and a country home in the Adirondacks in New York. They have two adult children and four grand children, and travel a lot. Robert attended a top level college for the French elite in Paris based on his test scores and has a PHD in international finance. He was CEO of a major French bank for many years and is now the CEO of a South Korean bank. They are wealthy. And they are interesting as individuals and as a married couple who have successfully raised two children (they met when she was 19 and he was 20). He also turned 70 recently.
I felt as if we connected on a personal level, just as people. Though on a material level we are not equals (by what measure I can only imagine), there are many touch points in the arc of our lives, so perhaps we will stay in touch and share stories again - this time in Manhattan!
Yesterday was Monday
My stress and anger about the wasted Sunday followed me down to breakfast yesterday, and I was skeptical about our planned day long bus tour and anxious about what the Lindblad company was going to do about the lost day. While I had little appetite, I was impressed by the array of offerings in the hotel buffet.
We were on the second day of the “Quito Extension” to our trip, and along with one other couple (more about them to follow), we were greeted by, Susie, our guide for the day at 8 am in the lobby for what turned out to be quite an in-depth and extensive tour of the countryside and small villages outside of Quito. Susie was full of information about the geography, economy, culture,and history of Ecuador. Our central destination was a market square in Otavalo, where were able find some good gifts for friends and family. We were driven through back-breaking country roads to a beautiful Hacienda which had once been a monetary where we were served an excellent lunch in an elegant setting - and getting to know our travel companions better.
We then visited a weaver known for the artistry of his tapestries and clothing. His work was excellent and so we did our part in support of his work by buying some more stuff!
Ecuador is a very hilly country with the Andes running north south through the country with the Pacific Ocean to the east of them and the Amazon to the west. Otavalo is close to the border of Columbia to the North. The roads are serpentine with many ascents and descents and heavy traffic close to the city.
After returning to the hotel around 5:45, we had 45 minutes before we were to be greeted by our guide for the evening, which turned out to include dinner at an excellent restaurant and a driving tour around the old “colonial” area of the city. By the time we were dropped back at the hotel, we were ready for bed.
Now for a few photos with the story of our travel companions to follow. These were taken in a church where we surmised that all of the local elementary and middle schools were putting on an elaborate Christmas pageant. There were hundreds of children dressed in a colorful range of outfits, which ranged from Santa Claus to candy canes!
We were on the second day of the “Quito Extension” to our trip, and along with one other couple (more about them to follow), we were greeted by, Susie, our guide for the day at 8 am in the lobby for what turned out to be quite an in-depth and extensive tour of the countryside and small villages outside of Quito. Susie was full of information about the geography, economy, culture,and history of Ecuador. Our central destination was a market square in Otavalo, where were able find some good gifts for friends and family. We were driven through back-breaking country roads to a beautiful Hacienda which had once been a monetary where we were served an excellent lunch in an elegant setting - and getting to know our travel companions better.
We then visited a weaver known for the artistry of his tapestries and clothing. His work was excellent and so we did our part in support of his work by buying some more stuff!
Ecuador is a very hilly country with the Andes running north south through the country with the Pacific Ocean to the east of them and the Amazon to the west. Otavalo is close to the border of Columbia to the North. The roads are serpentine with many ascents and descents and heavy traffic close to the city.
After returning to the hotel around 5:45, we had 45 minutes before we were to be greeted by our guide for the evening, which turned out to include dinner at an excellent restaurant and a driving tour around the old “colonial” area of the city. By the time we were dropped back at the hotel, we were ready for bed.
Now for a few photos with the story of our travel companions to follow. These were taken in a church where we surmised that all of the local elementary and middle schools were putting on an elaborate Christmas pageant. There were hundreds of children dressed in a colorful range of outfits, which ranged from Santa Claus to candy canes!
Sunday, December 9, 2018
What a Day
We ended up spending a total of 7 hours in the airport between the ticket screw up and a flight delay. We got to our hotel room around 9:30 pm, missing our afternoon tour and dinner. I have a serious problem with the Lindblad operation which will be topic number one tomorrow.
At least it is a Hilton, and the WiFi works well.
Oh, and I lost the credit card we have been using and have had to lock it before I can call and report it missing...
No photos today.
At least it is a Hilton, and the WiFi works well.
Oh, and I lost the credit card we have been using and have had to lock it before I can call and report it missing...
No photos today.
Travel Woes
So last night as we were going to sleep there was a lot of commotion outside our room. One of the guests had fallen down a steep set of stairs, landing on her face and getting knocked out. Her room was directly across from ours. It took hours of consultation among the ship doctor, a passenger doctor, the captain, and the senior leadership of the boat before a plan was agreed upon. We stayed in our room and only heard fragments of the discussion. Then at 5:00 am another major conflab ensued working out a plan to get her down several sets of stairs and into the zodiac so she could be taken by ambulance to the hospital in Guayaquil.
I did not get much sleep.
At the airport we found out that Avianca had screwed up ticketing for the six of us going to Quito. So we missed our flight while Lindblad staff struggled with the airline to get us ticketed. We must now wait in the airport until 1:30 before correct tickets can be issued for a 3:30 flight to Quito. We will now arrive hours later than planned and will miss the afternoon excursion that we paid for. 😱.
I did not get much sleep.
At the airport we found out that Avianca had screwed up ticketing for the six of us going to Quito. So we missed our flight while Lindblad staff struggled with the airline to get us ticketed. We must now wait in the airport until 1:30 before correct tickets can be issued for a 3:30 flight to Quito. We will now arrive hours later than planned and will miss the afternoon excursion that we paid for. 😱.
Saturday, December 8, 2018
Today is Saturday
And tomorrow we leave the boat and head for Quito. This morning we went for a walk in birdland. We are now anchored in a large bowl which was formed by a crater in Genovesa Island. It is known for its huge population of birds - frigate birds, red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, and swallow-tailed gulls. They are unafraid of people and have no natural predators. And of course there were sea lions!
Then we went snorkeling again. Though the water was a bit murky, we saw many colorful fish of many sizes and shapes.
Some pictures:
Then we went snorkeling again. Though the water was a bit murky, we saw many colorful fish of many sizes and shapes.
Some pictures:
Last Night
Another good meal and conversation. We have eaten many of our meals with different groups of people and learned a lot about our fellow travelers, a much easier and more comfortable process than I had anticipated. We ate lunch yesterday with the only female guide (who was born and raised in the Galapagos) and has never experienced winter. She is delightfully energetic and informative. We learned that every Lindblad ship has a powerful microscope on board that is connected to the large tv screens in the lounge/briefing room, and before dinner she showed samples of sand from different beaches. She pointed out an astonishing number of sources for the grains - like tiny pieces of sea urchin spines.
Here is sunset - other photos to follow:
Here is sunset - other photos to follow:
Friday, December 7, 2018
Yesterday which may have been Thursday
We started the day with excellent 1/2 hour massages, and then we enjoyed an hour in a quiet cove in a double sea kayak. A school of giant rays swam swam around us and many sea lions barked in caves and on the rocks all around us. The water 💦 is this color and you can easily see to the bottom. Dinner was served instead of buffet. Anne and I are still having to be careful about what we eat, so no dairy or sauces ...😕. Last night when I went out on the observation deck, it seemed as if the stars were much closer than at home. Orion was directly overhead, and I saw a satellite that was spinning around in a tight circle - I imagined that it was a google device taking photos of some area on the planet.
I have learned that is better to post photos in smaller sets, so here is one from the boat:
I have learned that is better to post photos in smaller sets, so here is one from the boat:
Thursday, December 6, 2018
Argh
The internet is EXPENSIVE and slow on this boat, so my posting will be resricted these next few days. Life aboard is good. This afternoon we go sea kayaking, and tomorrow we go snorkeling. Here are a few shots from yesterday.
Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos
There is a cemetery behind this wall.
Anne’s Post (Will upload photo later)
Machu Picchu might have inspired the adage about the journey being as important as the destination. It is still hard to get to, even going in the most expeditious and comfortable way possible as we did.
Machu Picchu might have inspired the adage about the journey being as important as the destination. It is still hard to get to, even going in the most expeditious and comfortable way possible as we did.
I left the hotel in Urubamba at 9:45 am and returned about 9:30 pm. Of those almost 12 hours, we spent two hours touring MP. The rest was spent getting to the train, on the train, walking through the chaotic base camp town of Aguas Calientes to get to the bus up the mountain to the site, and then doing the bus, walk, and train, and shuttle back. Still, there’s no doubt that it’s worth it. And if I weren’t going there the luxury route, there’s no doubt that I never would have made it on this particularly difficult day.
Our first-class train resembled the dining car of the Orient Express with tables for two and four laden with linens and stemware. Before we boarded, we were offered champagne in a special waiting room and a three-course lunch with wine during the 90-minute ride to Aguas Calientes. Except for water and tea, literally none of it was what the doctor had ordered and I said “no gracias” to 99.9% of it, feeling like a rude guest. My table companions, two midwesterners traveling solo who’d been assigned to room together but already seemed like old friends, were sympathetic companions. The scenery provided extra diversion and I was busy taking photos to try and capture some of the experience for Ray, who weighed heavily on my mind and spirit.
Once there, we climbed, and I panted, up a twisting stone staircase with no rail that must be wicked slippery after rain. After the climb, our first view was panoramic and breathtaking. The day was mostly clear and cool but not hot. The ancient village spread out in all its glory. It does look like a place where humans could live, too, unlike most ancient ruins, nestled in a cleft between massive mountain tops with the river flowing far below. There’s little to no modern signage or other clutter to mar the allusion that this improbable almost impossible place really exists in some ways as it has for hundreds of years. And you’re allowed to sit on the smooth, cool stones, as long as your feet touch the ground.
Wednesday, December 5, 2018
We enjoyed a wondrous day among giant tortoises and learned gobs about their history here in these islands and what the Darwin research center is doing to preserve the various species. We are on the 45 person Islander that is like a four star hotel! Both recovered and ready for hiking and sea kayaking tomorrow. Anne is working on her Macchu Pichu post which will be up soon.
Tuesday, December 4, 2018
Machu Picchu
I did not post yesterday because I was sick and angry! Anne and I both woke up with the demon food poisoning having reared its ugly head. Fortunately the hotel was able to call a doctor who came to our room fairly quickly with an assistant. We were examined, given shots, and a ton of medications. We had missed the morning bus, but Anne was able to make a later connection for the trip to Machu Picchu. I was too knocked out and proceeded to sleep for most of the day. So I missed one of the main attractions of our trip, and spent the day alone and miserable.
Anne will provide her summary of the day’s events.
Alas today was simply a travel day with a 1 1/2 hour bus ride to Cuzco, a 1 hour flight to Lima, lunch in a hotel, a long wait for a flight to Quayaquil, a 1/2 hour flight, and then a 45 minute process to get settled on our (albeit exquisite) hotel room by 8:30 PM. And we to get up 5:30 AM tomorrow for another flight to the Galapolos!
My precsiptions
Anne will provide her summary of the day’s events.
Alas today was simply a travel day with a 1 1/2 hour bus ride to Cuzco, a 1 hour flight to Lima, lunch in a hotel, a long wait for a flight to Quayaquil, a 1/2 hour flight, and then a 45 minute process to get settled on our (albeit exquisite) hotel room by 8:30 PM. And we to get up 5:30 AM tomorrow for another flight to the Galapolos!
Sunday, December 2, 2018
Cusco
We made it to breakfast by 5:30 AM, met our tour group (44 people), and to the bus, and to the plane and to Cusco by 11 AM, all in a fog. Our tour leader, Saul, (we are divided into 3 buses) looks just like Gael Garcia Bernal (from Mozart in the Jungle - we loved it), and is excellent. We hit the highlights of Cusco (a few photos follow), then went to Chinchero where Quechua native women run a weaving community using traditional techniques to produce beautiful textiles for everything from small purses to ponchos. Now we are staying in a 5 star resort hotel in the Sacred Valley - the ultimate in Luxury ( https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/cuztl-tambo-del-inka-a-luxury-collection-resort-and-spa-valle-sagrado/?scid=bb1a189a-fec3-4d19-a255-54ba596febe2).
We did struggle some with the altitude today, made a bit more challenging by our recovery from the “tourista”, but the experiences of Cusco and Chinchero caried us through. Much more to say about the people and the culture and the history than I have energy for tonight. Even being a tourist among many as part of a large tourist group in places that are doing everything they can to cater to tourists, I still felt the awe and mystery of these places.
We did struggle some with the altitude today, made a bit more challenging by our recovery from the “tourista”, but the experiences of Cusco and Chinchero caried us through. Much more to say about the people and the culture and the history than I have energy for tonight. Even being a tourist among many as part of a large tourist group in places that are doing everything they can to cater to tourists, I still felt the awe and mystery of these places.
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